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Technologies numériques/Textiles/Impression 3D sur tissu (voir la source)
Version du 23 août 2024 à 18:35
, 23 aoûtPage créée avec « == Introduction == L’impression 3D est si polyvalente qu’elle peut également être incorporée au tissu, créant ainsi des caractéristiques futuristes des vêtement… »
== Introduction ==
L’impression 3D est si polyvalente qu’elle peut également être incorporée au tissu, créant ainsi des caractéristiques futuristes des vêtements.
Il a prospéré dans l’industrie de la mode et de nombreuses marques célèbres fabriquent et vendent actuellement des vêtements imprimés en 3D.
L'impression 3D vous permet de créer vos propres motifs pour vos vêtements et de les personnaliser à votre guise.
Divers applications de l'impression 3D sur tissu sont notament les costumes de cosplayers, des chaussures, des bijoux et vous pouvez même raviver vos vielles T-shirts avec des motifs les motifs complexes de vos vieilles chemises, l'impression 3D peut donner vie à vos créations.
[[File:3D printing on fabric.png|center|500x1000px|3D printing on fabric]]<ref><nowiki>https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/the-mit-scientists-making-3d-printed-fabrics-as-soft-as-skin-157609/</nowiki></ref><div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. 3D printed fabric</div>
This document will give you an overview of how to 3D print on fabrics.
It will show three examples, each with its own filament, however the technique remains fairly the same.
== 3D printing on fabric examples ==
The following figures depict the final products obtained:
=== Dragon Scales ===
Dragon scales are inevitable when you are dealing with cosplayers’ costumes.
Moreover, their whimsical look can be pleasant for fantasy fans.
As shown in the picture, you can create your own dragon scale fabrics by incorporating your fabric between your 3D printed parts.
[[File:Woodfill dragon scales.png|center|500x1000px|Wood fill dragon scales|link=Special:FilePath/Woodfill_dragon_scales.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Wood fill dragon scales</div>
=== Glow in the dark Hexagons ===
The hexagons form a delightful pattern which may be ideal for making pieces of jewelry.
[[File:Hexagons.png|center|500x1000px|Glow-in-the-dark hexagons|link=Special:FilePath/Hexagons.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Glow-in-the-dark hexagons</div>
=== Photochromatic Snap Buttons ===
Snap buttons can revolutionize the way you use buttons, which are usually sewn on your shirts.
[[File:Snap buttons1.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons1.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Photochromatic snap buttons on woven fabric</div>
[[File:Snap buttons2.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons2.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Photochromatic snap buttons</div>
[[File:Snap buttons3.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons3.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Photochromatic snap buttons under UV light</div>
Different types of filaments were used. You can use the material of your choice and make the necessary changes in your 3D slicer.
==Filament used==
The following table shows the printers used for each filament type and some of the difficulties that came up.
The printer, Flsun v400 was the first option for all three examples since it is faster and was ideal for filaments of 1.75 mm, unfortunately one filament type did not perform well with this printer, specifically the Woodfill PLA.
{| class="wikitable" style="margin:1em auto 1em auto;"
|+
! scope="col" |Printer
! scope="col" |Filament
! scope="col" |Slicer
! scope="col" |Difficulties encountered
|-
|Colour fab Wood fill PLA (2.85 mm)
|Ultimaker 2+-Nozzle 0.4 mm
|Cura
|
*Incessant clogging with Flsun v400 printer
* Got burnt several times v400 nozzle
*Over extrusion with a 0.8 mm nozzle-UMP
*Was not adhering to build plate-UMP
|-
|Glow in the dark PLA (1.75 mm)
|Flsun v400
|Cura
|No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
|-
|Photochromatic PLA (1.75 mm)
|Flsun v400
|Cura
|No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
|}
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Filament used</div>
Note: Some specialty filaments are abrasive and can severely damage the nozzle
==Getting Started==
===Preparing your model===
A 3D CAD software, such as Onshape can be used to build up your model from scratch.
Or you can find some readily available designs online on [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse.]
Note: The dragon scales and the hexagons were from Thingiverse.
-Dragon scales<ref>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3470986/files</ref>
-Hexagons<ref><nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4603936/files</nowiki> </ref>
-Snap buttons<ref><nowiki>https://www.instructables.com/How-to-3D-Print-Onto-Fabric/</nowiki>
</ref>
==== Slicer ====
Now you must bring your model to your slicer.
To use the slicer:
* Download the slicer you will need for free or use one of Makerspace's computers. In our example we will be using Ultimaker Cura.
* Bring your model to your slicer. Remember to save your file as STL.
==== Print settings ====
The following table shows the changes made in the print settings; all other settings were left the same.
{| class="wikitable" style="margin:1em auto 1em auto;"
|+
! scope="col" |
! scope="col" |Dragon scales
! scope="col" |Hexagons
! scope="col" |Snap buttons
|-
|Material
|Wood fill PLA colorFabb Woodfill
|Generic PLA
|Generic PLA
|-
|Nozzle size
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Infill pattern
|Grid
|Grid
|Grid
|-
|Infill density
|10 %
|10 %
|10 %
|-
|Layer height
|0.15 mm
|0.20 mm
|0.15 mm
|-
|Print speed
|_
|150 mm/s
|150 mm/s
|-
|Build-plate adhesion
|None
|None
|None
|-
|Printing temperature
|_
|210 °C
|210 °C
|-
|Build-plate temperature
|_
|60 °C
|60 °C
|}
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 2. Filament used</div>
Additionally, to facilitate the printing process after incorporating the fabric,
Go to Custom --> All in the Print settings and enable the following:
* Enable Retraction-reduces stringing,
* Z Hop when retracted-prevents nozzle from dragging along surface,
[[File: Print settings.png|center|300x600px |All print settings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Fig 7. All print settings
</div>
Note:
For the Ultimaker printer, you may have to clean the build plate and adjust its level if your filament is not adhering to it.
* To clean: Use the cleaner available and paper towels and carefully wipe the build plate.
* To adjust level: At the Ultimaker printer go to Maintenance -> Build plate and follow the instructions given.
====== Calibrating the build-plate: ======
Calibrating the plate may be necessary when dealing with specialty filament, more information can be found on the following [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Bed Levelling, Filament Change|link.]]
=== Gathering materials ===
Before starting your print, ensure that you have the following materials:
* Fabric
* Tape
* Scissors
* Ruler
After gathering your materials,
* Measure out the amount of fabric you would need and cut it out.
Note: Your fabric should be smaller than the print area.
* The fabrics used were tulle and a woven fabric.
== Starting your print ==
Note that the printing will be in two stages.
The first stage will be before the fabric is embedded in the 3D printed part and the second stage will be after its incorporation.
* Save your model and bring it to the printer.
* Switch on the printer and do the necessary configuration depending on the material you are using.
* Begin print.
Let it print the first two layers of your model as shown below:
[[File: First stage print.png|center|500x800 px|First stage print|link=Special:FilePath/First_stage_print.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. First stage print</div>
*Pause your print
====== Incorporating your fabric ======
* Place your fabric on the part that has been printed.
[[File: Taped fabric.png|center|500x800 px|Taped fabric|link=Special:FilePath/Taped_fabric.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Taped fabric</div>
*Resume print and watch your 3D printing fabric being formed.
Note: Tulle is a mesh fabric, the first 3D printed part can adhere to the second 3D printed part between the little holes in the fabric, causing the latter to be securely held.
On the other hand, holes need to be made for other fabric types such as woven fabrics to enable the fabric to be stuck between the 3D printed parts.
===Perforating woven fabric===
The following steps demonstrate how and what kind of holes should be made in your fabric:
*Measure the amount of fabric you would need
*We will use the laser cutter to cut out the fabric, you can use Inkscape to make the perforations.
[[File: Perforation Inkscape.png|center|500x800 px| Perforations|link=Special:FilePath/Perforations]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Perforations Inkscape design </div>
Note: This design was used to maximize cohesion.
* Iron your fabric and lay it on a piece of MDF. Tape it securely into place.
[[File: Fabric on board in laser cutter.png|center|500x800 px| Fabric on board in laser cutter|link=Special:FilePath/Fabric_on_board_in_laser_cutter.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Fabric on board in laser cutter </div>
* Configure the properties as follows:
Note: Laser Cutter used: Epilog Mini
The properties depend on the fabric used:
Vector Settings:
* Speed: 100 %
* Power: 10 %
* Frequency: 150 Hz
*Begin cut:
[[File:Perforations.png|thumb|Figure 12.Perforated fabric]]
The different configurations will vary depending on the printer, the material or the type of fabric you are using for your project.
Yet, the overall process for 3D printing on fabric remains similar, that is, you should incorporate your fabric in between the two stages of printing.
== Applications of 3D printing on fabric ==
The following examples demonstrate how you can apply this concept:
[[File:Application1.png|center|Dragon hands]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Dragon hands</div>
[[File:Application2.png|center|200x200px|Necklace]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Necklace</div>
[[File:Application3.png|center|200x200px|Vest]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Vest</div>
== References ==
<references />
L’impression 3D est si polyvalente qu’elle peut également être incorporée au tissu, créant ainsi des caractéristiques futuristes des vêtements.
Il a prospéré dans l’industrie de la mode et de nombreuses marques célèbres fabriquent et vendent actuellement des vêtements imprimés en 3D.
L'impression 3D vous permet de créer vos propres motifs pour vos vêtements et de les personnaliser à votre guise.
Divers applications de l'impression 3D sur tissu sont notament les costumes de cosplayers, des chaussures, des bijoux et vous pouvez même raviver vos vielles T-shirts avec des motifs les motifs complexes de vos vieilles chemises, l'impression 3D peut donner vie à vos créations.
[[File:3D printing on fabric.png|center|500x1000px|3D printing on fabric]]<ref><nowiki>https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/the-mit-scientists-making-3d-printed-fabrics-as-soft-as-skin-157609/</nowiki></ref><div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. 3D printed fabric</div>
This document will give you an overview of how to 3D print on fabrics.
It will show three examples, each with its own filament, however the technique remains fairly the same.
== 3D printing on fabric examples ==
The following figures depict the final products obtained:
=== Dragon Scales ===
Dragon scales are inevitable when you are dealing with cosplayers’ costumes.
Moreover, their whimsical look can be pleasant for fantasy fans.
As shown in the picture, you can create your own dragon scale fabrics by incorporating your fabric between your 3D printed parts.
[[File:Woodfill dragon scales.png|center|500x1000px|Wood fill dragon scales|link=Special:FilePath/Woodfill_dragon_scales.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Wood fill dragon scales</div>
=== Glow in the dark Hexagons ===
The hexagons form a delightful pattern which may be ideal for making pieces of jewelry.
[[File:Hexagons.png|center|500x1000px|Glow-in-the-dark hexagons|link=Special:FilePath/Hexagons.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Glow-in-the-dark hexagons</div>
=== Photochromatic Snap Buttons ===
Snap buttons can revolutionize the way you use buttons, which are usually sewn on your shirts.
[[File:Snap buttons1.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons1.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Photochromatic snap buttons on woven fabric</div>
[[File:Snap buttons2.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons2.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Photochromatic snap buttons</div>
[[File:Snap buttons3.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons3.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Photochromatic snap buttons under UV light</div>
Different types of filaments were used. You can use the material of your choice and make the necessary changes in your 3D slicer.
==Filament used==
The following table shows the printers used for each filament type and some of the difficulties that came up.
The printer, Flsun v400 was the first option for all three examples since it is faster and was ideal for filaments of 1.75 mm, unfortunately one filament type did not perform well with this printer, specifically the Woodfill PLA.
{| class="wikitable" style="margin:1em auto 1em auto;"
|+
! scope="col" |Printer
! scope="col" |Filament
! scope="col" |Slicer
! scope="col" |Difficulties encountered
|-
|Colour fab Wood fill PLA (2.85 mm)
|Ultimaker 2+-Nozzle 0.4 mm
|Cura
|
*Incessant clogging with Flsun v400 printer
* Got burnt several times v400 nozzle
*Over extrusion with a 0.8 mm nozzle-UMP
*Was not adhering to build plate-UMP
|-
|Glow in the dark PLA (1.75 mm)
|Flsun v400
|Cura
|No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
|-
|Photochromatic PLA (1.75 mm)
|Flsun v400
|Cura
|No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
|}
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Filament used</div>
Note: Some specialty filaments are abrasive and can severely damage the nozzle
==Getting Started==
===Preparing your model===
A 3D CAD software, such as Onshape can be used to build up your model from scratch.
Or you can find some readily available designs online on [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse.]
Note: The dragon scales and the hexagons were from Thingiverse.
-Dragon scales<ref>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3470986/files</ref>
-Hexagons<ref><nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4603936/files</nowiki> </ref>
-Snap buttons<ref><nowiki>https://www.instructables.com/How-to-3D-Print-Onto-Fabric/</nowiki>
</ref>
==== Slicer ====
Now you must bring your model to your slicer.
To use the slicer:
* Download the slicer you will need for free or use one of Makerspace's computers. In our example we will be using Ultimaker Cura.
* Bring your model to your slicer. Remember to save your file as STL.
==== Print settings ====
The following table shows the changes made in the print settings; all other settings were left the same.
{| class="wikitable" style="margin:1em auto 1em auto;"
|+
! scope="col" |
! scope="col" |Dragon scales
! scope="col" |Hexagons
! scope="col" |Snap buttons
|-
|Material
|Wood fill PLA colorFabb Woodfill
|Generic PLA
|Generic PLA
|-
|Nozzle size
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Infill pattern
|Grid
|Grid
|Grid
|-
|Infill density
|10 %
|10 %
|10 %
|-
|Layer height
|0.15 mm
|0.20 mm
|0.15 mm
|-
|Print speed
|_
|150 mm/s
|150 mm/s
|-
|Build-plate adhesion
|None
|None
|None
|-
|Printing temperature
|_
|210 °C
|210 °C
|-
|Build-plate temperature
|_
|60 °C
|60 °C
|}
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 2. Filament used</div>
Additionally, to facilitate the printing process after incorporating the fabric,
Go to Custom --> All in the Print settings and enable the following:
* Enable Retraction-reduces stringing,
* Z Hop when retracted-prevents nozzle from dragging along surface,
[[File: Print settings.png|center|300x600px |All print settings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Fig 7. All print settings
</div>
Note:
For the Ultimaker printer, you may have to clean the build plate and adjust its level if your filament is not adhering to it.
* To clean: Use the cleaner available and paper towels and carefully wipe the build plate.
* To adjust level: At the Ultimaker printer go to Maintenance -> Build plate and follow the instructions given.
====== Calibrating the build-plate: ======
Calibrating the plate may be necessary when dealing with specialty filament, more information can be found on the following [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Bed Levelling, Filament Change|link.]]
=== Gathering materials ===
Before starting your print, ensure that you have the following materials:
* Fabric
* Tape
* Scissors
* Ruler
After gathering your materials,
* Measure out the amount of fabric you would need and cut it out.
Note: Your fabric should be smaller than the print area.
* The fabrics used were tulle and a woven fabric.
== Starting your print ==
Note that the printing will be in two stages.
The first stage will be before the fabric is embedded in the 3D printed part and the second stage will be after its incorporation.
* Save your model and bring it to the printer.
* Switch on the printer and do the necessary configuration depending on the material you are using.
* Begin print.
Let it print the first two layers of your model as shown below:
[[File: First stage print.png|center|500x800 px|First stage print|link=Special:FilePath/First_stage_print.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. First stage print</div>
*Pause your print
====== Incorporating your fabric ======
* Place your fabric on the part that has been printed.
[[File: Taped fabric.png|center|500x800 px|Taped fabric|link=Special:FilePath/Taped_fabric.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Taped fabric</div>
*Resume print and watch your 3D printing fabric being formed.
Note: Tulle is a mesh fabric, the first 3D printed part can adhere to the second 3D printed part between the little holes in the fabric, causing the latter to be securely held.
On the other hand, holes need to be made for other fabric types such as woven fabrics to enable the fabric to be stuck between the 3D printed parts.
===Perforating woven fabric===
The following steps demonstrate how and what kind of holes should be made in your fabric:
*Measure the amount of fabric you would need
*We will use the laser cutter to cut out the fabric, you can use Inkscape to make the perforations.
[[File: Perforation Inkscape.png|center|500x800 px| Perforations|link=Special:FilePath/Perforations]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Perforations Inkscape design </div>
Note: This design was used to maximize cohesion.
* Iron your fabric and lay it on a piece of MDF. Tape it securely into place.
[[File: Fabric on board in laser cutter.png|center|500x800 px| Fabric on board in laser cutter|link=Special:FilePath/Fabric_on_board_in_laser_cutter.png]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Fabric on board in laser cutter </div>
* Configure the properties as follows:
Note: Laser Cutter used: Epilog Mini
The properties depend on the fabric used:
Vector Settings:
* Speed: 100 %
* Power: 10 %
* Frequency: 150 Hz
*Begin cut:
[[File:Perforations.png|thumb|Figure 12.Perforated fabric]]
The different configurations will vary depending on the printer, the material or the type of fabric you are using for your project.
Yet, the overall process for 3D printing on fabric remains similar, that is, you should incorporate your fabric in between the two stages of printing.
== Applications of 3D printing on fabric ==
The following examples demonstrate how you can apply this concept:
[[File:Application1.png|center|Dragon hands]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Dragon hands</div>
[[File:Application2.png|center|200x200px|Necklace]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Necklace</div>
[[File:Application3.png|center|200x200px|Vest]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Vest</div>
== References ==
<references />